Post by ekkiemum on Dec 18, 2005 13:34:44 GMT 8
hey this is a great weaning article that helped me out alot with my baby (heck it still is!) enjoy!
UNDERSTANDING THE WEANING PROCESS
Psychological and Physical Aspects
By
Wanda Barras
he two most dangerous and stressful times in a chick’s life are during hatching and weaning. I believe weaning to be the most difficult part of the hand-feeding process. This transition period is the time when a chick becomes more independent and begins eating on his own. Weaning is a normal physiological response and a stressful time for both the bird and the one who feeds him.
When is it time to begin weaning? What a loaded question! Considering the number of species being hand-fed by breeders, there is no one answer to this question. There is no hard-and-fast rule as to when hand-fed babies are ready to wean. Some general weaning guidelines can make the weaning process easier and less confusing at this pivotal time
It is very important not to miss the critical period when a bird becomes interested in eating. If that instinct is unsatisfied and the opportune moment is missed, weaning may take for ever! Each hand-fed baby is an individual and will wean in his own time if proper nutrition and an environment indusive to weaning is provided before that propitious weaning moment. Roudybush states that, “Weaning appears not to be a learned process and occurs at a certain age which is not affected by external stimulation of hunger” (Roudybush, 1986).
Birds Learn By Watching & Imitating
Determining how much of a birds behavior is instinctive and how much is learned is difficult. In the wild a young bird develops and learns by watching and imitating its parents. In this way he is taught how and what to eat. My personal observation of chicks during the weaning process has convinced me that learning does play a major role in encouraging weaning behavior. Weaning can be motivated by providing a “teacher” --- an older weaned bird housed with babies to teach feeding techniques and behavior. Introduction of a newly weaned or “teacher” bird can help to hasten weaning. Make sure the older bird is not aggressive and is healthy before placing it in the weaning cage with fledglings. Psittacine fledglings are extremely curious, receptive and reactive to events around them and depend on a constant exposure to stimuli to achieve proper development (“Baby Psychology”, R.C. Clipsham, D.V.M., AFA Watchbird, June/July 1992,) . Hence, weaning two or more babies is much easier than weaning a single bird.
Never Force A Baby To Wean
Hand-fed babies should not be forced to wean before they are ready. Starving a baby into weaning is not an option. If a baby gets too hungry, it will not even try to pick up food on its own. Weaning should not be initiated before a bird has attained his maximum weight ( see chart below) and “has reached an age and level of development and behavior at which it is physically and psychologically prepared” (“Psittacine Aviculture, Perspectives, Techniques and Research”., Psittacine Neonatal Care and Hand-Feeding, S. Clubb, K Clubb, D. Skidmore, S. Wolf, and A. Philips, 1992, pp. 11-9). Too young or underweight chicks will not have the fat reserves necessary to successfully accomplish the weaning process and may loose too much weight which causes undue stress and can lead to malnutrition and health problems.
UNDERSTANDING AVIAN DEVELOPMENT
Weaning problems and difficulty are often rooted in a lack of understanding of normal avian development. Only by understanding what happens during a birds developmental periods are we able to meet the needs of a growing bird. As with human children , baby parrots gradually develop motor skills and learn to eat at a time when they are physically, emotionally and psychologically ready.
Five stages of development in Psittacine birds.
· Stage 1---Critical Stage. First week of life. A hatchling is totally and absolutely dependent for all its needs. Immunodeficient---lacks an adequate immune system. Easily susceptible to disease. All psittacines are altricial. They are hatched blind and featherless, are helpless in food gathering, and are unable to thermoregulate--- hatchlings can not feed themselves, see, walk, fly or regulate body temperature. Frequent feedings are a must. Temperature and formula consistency are extremely important.
· Stage 2--- Dependent for all needs. From day seven to pin feathers. As a chick matures he will be less affected by temperature variations and incorrect brooding techniques. Formula is a thicker, more nutritious consistency and fed less frequently. Crop capacity is expanding and approaching its maximum. Less frequent feedings are warranted.
· Stage 3---Partial Dependency. Immune system still not fully functional. About half way through to weaning. Maximum crop capacity and peak weight reached during this stage. Feathers coming in. Blood feathers are evident. More able to tolerate lower temperatures but still needs supplemental heat especially at night. Has ability to walk. Starting to try out wings. Is alert and aware of surroundings. Can be introduced to a weaning cage when fully feathered. Becoming more coordinated. Beginning to perch on things. A good time to begin offering a variety of warmed weaning and soft foods in small quantities. Feedings are usually three times a day.
· Stage 4---Weaning Period. On the Way to Becoming a juvenile. Shows assertiveness. Baby is completely feathered. All blood is fully absorbed from wing feathers. Time to clip flight feathers. Beginning of slimming down process in preparation for flight---there is a strong correlation between weaning and flying. Birds usually fly before they are weaned. Babies will shed extra weight put on in preparation for the stressful weaning period. This slimming-down process will enable the fledgling to be able to fly when the time comes to leave the nest.
The crop shrinks and begins to tighten in preparation for a more mature diet. Individuals will require less formula at each feeding (about 10 to 15% less formula per feeding). Feedings (formula) are required only two or three times a day. Supplemental heat unnecessary but sometimes appreciated. At this time a bird may loose from 10-15% of total body weight. Weight and droppings should be closely monitored. Weaning cage highly recommended. A wide variety of weaning foods, fruit and veg., pellets, millet, a good seed mix and water should be made available to fledglings at all times.
· Stage 5---Juvenile Period and Young Adulthood. Completely self sufficient. Able to handle temperature extremes, with in reason. A wide variety of food appreciated.
There are signs that indicate a young bird is approaching weaning age:
1. They may become more difficult to feed and may even refuse to eat.
2. Regurgitation is common and can be a sign of crop shrinkage in preparation for weaning (simply feeding a little less formula can stop regurgitation in some cases).
3. The chick will usually cease to gain weight after reaching his peak weight and begin the slimming down process in preparation for flight.
4. Chicks are more aware of surroundings they will begin to pick at bedding materials and each other.
WEANING IS A GRADUAL & PROGRESSIVE PROCESS
Weaning should be a gradual and well thought out process. Introducing a variety of weaning foods just when babies begin to feather, can encourage early weaning and prove less stressful to young birds as they approach weaning age. Young birds will pick at food items as soon as they have eye/beak coordination. Chicks play with their food long before they actually begin to eat it. This is normal. Most weaning problems occur because weaning foods and water are not made available early enough. Stage 3 not Stage 4 is the ideal time to introduce soft weaning foods, pellets and millet. Stage 3 babies are too young to actually wean at this time but they will explore and become familiar with available foods.
Formula should be fed at maximum amounts during Stage 3--- starvation is not the key to successful weaning. thingyatiel chicks which reach a higher maximum weight sooner also wean earlier than chicks which do not gain more than their normal adult weight (Roudybush, 1986). A detailed weaning chart should be kept on each baby. Monitor and record weights periodically, include daily feeding schedule, formula amounts, condition of droppings (if feasible), weaning foods and include notes, comments and observations. Without accurate weaning records there is minimal opportunity for analysis and scrutiny of management and weaning techniques being used. Close observation, careful monitoring and the ability to accurately document and examine a weaning program is the key to successful weaning practices.
THE WEANING CAGE
Babies are ready to be put in a weaning cage when they are just out of pin feathers (Stage 3). Tail feathers are approximately 1” to 2” long. These feathered babies should be housed in a cage modified or designed to accommodate weaning babies. No more then five to six babies (smaller species such as thingyatiels) should be housed per cage. Larger species may be housed one or two per cage. Include a soft brooder toy for babies housed singularly. The cage should be large enough to allow the birds to exercise their wings.
WEANING CAGE SHOULD NOT BE TOO LARGE OR DRAFTY.
But not so large to be drafty or overwhelming. An economical weaning cage can be made from any safely designed standard cage. Cover the top and three sides of the cage with towels or a sheet, to eliminate drafts and make fledglings feel more secure. If room temperature is a little low supplemental heat may be warranted particularly at night and for younger babies. A heating pad can be clipped, with clothes pins, to the side of the cage, close to floor height (be sure to conceal and confine electrical cord). Another heater option is Cage’N Birds’ Baby Nurse Cuddler. This versatile heater may be secured inside the cage with the babies. Turning any cage or container into a comfortable safe weaning or brooding environment. If floor grate spacing is too wide for scooting babies cover with a plastic wire mesh cut to size and secured. If pre-weaned babies need a little heat they can snuggle against the warmth or retreat away from it if warrented.
HEAVY DISHES AND CLEAN WATER
Keep a wide variety of fresh weaning and soft foods readily available. A baby will not search for food. Food must be easily accessible and highly visible. Feeding dishes should be heavy, have low sides and placed at cage bottom. Clean water should be continuously accessible. Water bottles are the best choice. They are more sanitary and babies quickly learn to use them. Mount bottles low enough on cage so babies at floor height can reach. A 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch PVC coated wire or all plastic grid is recommended for cage bottoms. Place the 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch wire on top of the too wide standard bottom cage grates. The grid keeps babies away from unsanitary droppings and spoiled food, (“Hand-Rearing Parrots and Other Birds”, R. Low, 1988) It is healthier and helps cut clean-up time in half. PVC coating and plastic is easier on delicate fledglings feet then uncoated wire---it is also easier to clean and disinfect.
RED BULBS
I have found that transition from brooder to weaning cage is made easier when a 25 watt red bulb is used as night light and supplemental heat source. The red light is left on at all times. It keeps the weaning cage at a more even temperature and it soothes babies and encourages early weaning. If using the Baby Nurse Cuddler or a heating pad as heat source we suggest using a 7-1/2 or 25 watt red bulb as a night light.
Cage'N Birds B.H.W., Brooder/Hospital /Weaning Cage. This weaning cage was designed and developed for weaning. It is extremely efficient (We now manufacture this cage and offer it to our Cage’N Bird customers.) These light weight units are partially enclosed to cut down on drafts. Yet well ventilated for healthy air flow. The PVC coated wire grid keeps weaning babies clean and well above unhealthy droppings and discarded food. A 25 watt red light bulb provides gentle heat for babies who require it and also gives off a soft light for security and feeding at any time. A conveniently mounted water bottle keeps water clean and readily available. A low perch and low sided, heavy weight dish is also provided.
Weather you purchase a weaning cage or make your own, a weaning cage should be easy to clean, provide a area for food and water, be draft free and provide some form of supplemental heat.
WIDE VARIETY OF WEANING FOODS STIMULATE INTEREST
A variety of nutritious foods presented early is the key to successful weaning. Colors, shapes, textures and flavor all serve to stimulate interest and encourage independence. Birds tastes are highly individual and completely unpredictable. The larger variety of healthy foods made available, the more interested the baby will be in eating a variety of foods. Helpful and nutritious weaning products are numerous and readily available. Pretty Bird, Kaytee, Lafeber, Sun Seed and others offer interesting and nutritious weaning foods, pellets, seed mixes and bean diets. Dry cereals such as Cheerios, Checks, Rice Krispies, puffed wheat and puffed rice make a nice addition to a weaning diet or any diet. Whole wheat bread and rice cakes are excellent.
Monkey biscuits are accepted by most weaning babies. Whether soaked in warm fruit juice or served dry, monkey biscuits should be included with soft foods and dry mixes. A high quality fortified seed mix with a small portion of sunflower seed and peanuts added is a must---these items are soft and easy to hull.
Use caution with soft foods, they spoil quickly.
Soft foods spoil quickly and can cause bacterial infections or even food poisoning. Discard all uneaten food before it spoils. Do keep weaning cage clean and sanitary.
Soft warm foods are a must for juvenile birds. A cooked bean diet such as Pretty Birds’ Birdie Banquet, should be served first thing in the morning before hand-feeding. The warm beans are stimulating and encourage manipulation and swallowing. A good nestling food (CeDe’, Provita, Petamine, or Sweet Harvest, etc.) mixed into or sprinkled on soft foods is a nutritious addition to the weaning diet. I place about one tablesthingy of beans including nestling food, fruit and veg., beans, seed sprouts and lactobacillus on top of the dry seed /pellet mix left over from the day before (if mix is clean and unsoiled). A few hours latter (use common sense) all is discarded and fresh seed and pellets are added to the washed feed dish. Seasonal diced fresh and/or frozen (thawed) fruit and vegetables are nutritious and appealing. Fruits and vegetables may be mixed with the bean diet or served in a separate dish. Sprinkling a little powdered avian strain lactobacillus, such as Bird Bene-Bac, over the soft foods is highly recommended at this stressful time.
"Pellets Are Welcomed By Most Birds"
Adding a variety of pellets to the seed mix is beneficial. Juveniles welcome pellets and usually eat pellets before they are able to hull seeds. Sprouted seed, corn on the cob and cooked beans and rice are excellent and nutritious. Soaked pellets and monkey biscuits may be placed in a separate small dish and offered with sprouts in the afternoon or evening. Home made birdie muffins are never passed up by weaning babies.
Spray millet is excellent as a weaning food. Regular spray millet for smaller species and new Mega Millet for larger species. Millet is a soft grain, easy to handle and the first seed many birds learn to eat. thingyatiels respond well to spray millet. Adding a little dry oat meal and wheat germ to seed and pellet mixes or in a separate dish is appreciated by smaller species such as thingyatiels and other ground feeders.
TWO FEEDINGS A DAY
At Stage 4 of development most small species birds such as thingyatoos are on three feedings a day. Larger species such as Greys, thingyatoos and Macaws are usually on two feedings a day. At Stage 4, when babies begin picking at foods and show restlessness, refuse and struggle when fed or regurgitate at feeding time it is beneficial to decrease the amount of hand-feeding formula (about 10 to 15% per feeding). It is preferable to reduce the amount of food given at each feeding, rather than limit the number of feedings. For example a thingyatiel who was fed 10 to 12 cc’s three times a day would receive about 8 or 9 cc’s per feeding three times a day. Remember crops should not be overly filled with formula. Firm but not tight is the rule. Overly filling a chicks crop at this stage as can cause regurgitation, a stretching of the crop and ultimately cause the chick to regress and become overly dependent on hand-feeding. If the chick is constantly filled with formula and is nutritionally satisfied he may not have interest in eating on his own. With older Stage 4 babies it may prove beneficial to push back the first feeding to later in the morning, say 10:30 or 11:00. Placing a little warmed cooked bean diet on top of the seed and pellet mix sometimes encourages a baby to begin eating while he waits for his morning feeding. Never force a bird to eat. If a bird struggles or pulls away, skip that feeding. He may refuse one or two feedings but chances are he will be ready to eat when he gets hungry or he will be encouraged to try the adult foods.
CHECK CROP FOR FOOD
To evaluate weaning status it s advisable to periodically check the crop for food particles and evidence of independent consumption of foods. Before each formula feeding palpate the bird’s crop noticing any food stuffs he has eaten on his own. A crop with fresh, just eaten food will feel more firm or gritty if he has eaten seed, millet or pellets. You may even feel whole cooked beans or fuit and vegetables. If the crop is packed full of weaning foods it is recommended you skip that feeding. If crop is about 1/3 full of eaten food, hand-feed, but do not fill crop more than 1/2 to 3/4 full. Repeat the same process at the next scheduled feeding. Mark (with a colored marker) and keep a detailed record of any babies who are eating. As consumption of foods increase, slowly decrease the amount and frequency of formula. Feeling a little food in the crop now and then does not mean the baby is totally weaned. Supplemental feedings of formula may be required. You must frequently feel a considerable amount of food (about 3/4 full) in the marked babies crop before he is considered weaned. Before completely eliminating hand-feeding, be sure the bird is eating ample amounts of seeds, pellets and weaning foods. A “weaned” bird should be closely watched for several days after hand-feeding has stopped.
CROP IMPACTION
It is unusual for a weaning babies crop to become impacted if water is always provided and of course that he drinks it. If you suspect impaction, administer a solution of electrolyte such as Lactated Ringers, Ornalyte or Pedialyte with papaya. Warmed electrolyte solution and papaya should be given in small amounts, about 2 to 3 cc’s for thingyatiel sized birds and 5 to 10 cc’s for larger parrots, frequently (about every hour to half hour). I suggest about 1/2 papaya tablet to 10 cc’s Ringers or 1/2 Ringers to approximately 1/2 to 1/3 papaya juice. If you do not have electrolyte on hand a little warm water given as described above may prove beneficial.
MONITOR DROPPINGS---POOP IS A BIG DEAL
It is extremely difficult to assess just how much food a baby is consuming on his own. Droppings, evaluated daily, can give an indication of food consumption. Fecal and urinary output can provide a tremendous amount of information on a fledgling’s appetite, behavioral patterns, as well as providing insight as to his physical condition. When monitoring weaning babies it is important you keep a close eye on the number and consistency of droppings.
A BABY EATING ON HIS OWN WILL HAVE A MORE FIRM WELL FORMED DROPPING.
Chicks fed exclusively a commercial hand-feeding formula will have soft, semi-formed, voluminous stool, usually brownish in color. A baby eating on his own will have more firm well formed droppings (color depends on what type of food he is eating). It is important at this time to watch for any sign of abnormality. Changes in color of urates from white/cream to green or yellow, a change in the amount of fecal material or its consistency, and/or an increase in the amount of urine can indicate health problems. Juicy, slimy and/or foul smelling droppings in a weaned or unweaned bird may mean a health or nutrition problem.
Watery or juicy droppings can indicate a “weaned” baby is not actually weaned. He may have reverted back, he may be only drinking water and is not eating or has he gourged himself on fresh fruit?. You may have to begin hand-feed him again. Only when babies are refusing formula, are eating on their own, cease to beg and have healthy droppings for at least one week to ten days are they considered weaned. Dry, dark green, scant droppings generally indicate a lack of food and water in the digestive tract. If this occurs increase the level of hand feeding as necessary. It is wise to monitor a bird’s droppings, food intake and weight every few days to make sure he eats enough to maintain a healthy body weight. A chick who is weaned will no longer require any hand-feeding to maintain its weight. A weaned bird will not rely on humans for basic survival.
WEANING CAN BE UNPREDICTABLE
Weaning is an unpredictable and confusing time which can feature weight loss, uncontrollable begging, illness, depression and sometimes personality changes. During weaning make sure babies are healthy, are not too thin and seem alert and active. It is a good idea to feel a babies keel bone often. It should be plump with flesh. If keel bone is sharp and narrow, and feet and toes are thin and claw like it may be that he is not receiving enough nourishment or it could be a medical problem. Thinness in combination with overdue weaning, excessive crying and begging and loose and/or slimy foul droopings can be an indication of a yeast or bacterial problem. A baby can become too thin to wean and should be supplemented with formula (sometimes administering Instant Ounces can prove beneficial in severe cases of weight loss) until his weight is satisfactory and he is not frantic for food. A baby should not be allowed to reach the point of emaciation. It is normal for babies to loose some weight during weaning (10 to 15% of peak weight). If a baby refuses to wean, looses over 20% of his peak weight, has abnormal droppings and begs insistently to be hand-fed or if you are worried about a babies condition, consult your avian veterinarian, the baby may have a health problem
IN CONCLUSION
Weaning is a natural process. It is easily accomplished if one understands that process and does not try to change or hurry the natural course of events. Keep in mind birds are individuals weaning times and circumstances will vary. Even clutch mates can wean at different ages. Remember, the larger the bird the longer it takes to wean. A careful attention to avian husbandry and a knowledge of normal development is essential to success in hand-feeding and weaning parrots.
UNDERSTANDING THE WEANING PROCESS
Psychological and Physical Aspects
By
Wanda Barras
he two most dangerous and stressful times in a chick’s life are during hatching and weaning. I believe weaning to be the most difficult part of the hand-feeding process. This transition period is the time when a chick becomes more independent and begins eating on his own. Weaning is a normal physiological response and a stressful time for both the bird and the one who feeds him.
When is it time to begin weaning? What a loaded question! Considering the number of species being hand-fed by breeders, there is no one answer to this question. There is no hard-and-fast rule as to when hand-fed babies are ready to wean. Some general weaning guidelines can make the weaning process easier and less confusing at this pivotal time
It is very important not to miss the critical period when a bird becomes interested in eating. If that instinct is unsatisfied and the opportune moment is missed, weaning may take for ever! Each hand-fed baby is an individual and will wean in his own time if proper nutrition and an environment indusive to weaning is provided before that propitious weaning moment. Roudybush states that, “Weaning appears not to be a learned process and occurs at a certain age which is not affected by external stimulation of hunger” (Roudybush, 1986).
Birds Learn By Watching & Imitating
Determining how much of a birds behavior is instinctive and how much is learned is difficult. In the wild a young bird develops and learns by watching and imitating its parents. In this way he is taught how and what to eat. My personal observation of chicks during the weaning process has convinced me that learning does play a major role in encouraging weaning behavior. Weaning can be motivated by providing a “teacher” --- an older weaned bird housed with babies to teach feeding techniques and behavior. Introduction of a newly weaned or “teacher” bird can help to hasten weaning. Make sure the older bird is not aggressive and is healthy before placing it in the weaning cage with fledglings. Psittacine fledglings are extremely curious, receptive and reactive to events around them and depend on a constant exposure to stimuli to achieve proper development (“Baby Psychology”, R.C. Clipsham, D.V.M., AFA Watchbird, June/July 1992,) . Hence, weaning two or more babies is much easier than weaning a single bird.
Never Force A Baby To Wean
Hand-fed babies should not be forced to wean before they are ready. Starving a baby into weaning is not an option. If a baby gets too hungry, it will not even try to pick up food on its own. Weaning should not be initiated before a bird has attained his maximum weight ( see chart below) and “has reached an age and level of development and behavior at which it is physically and psychologically prepared” (“Psittacine Aviculture, Perspectives, Techniques and Research”., Psittacine Neonatal Care and Hand-Feeding, S. Clubb, K Clubb, D. Skidmore, S. Wolf, and A. Philips, 1992, pp. 11-9). Too young or underweight chicks will not have the fat reserves necessary to successfully accomplish the weaning process and may loose too much weight which causes undue stress and can lead to malnutrition and health problems.
UNDERSTANDING AVIAN DEVELOPMENT
Weaning problems and difficulty are often rooted in a lack of understanding of normal avian development. Only by understanding what happens during a birds developmental periods are we able to meet the needs of a growing bird. As with human children , baby parrots gradually develop motor skills and learn to eat at a time when they are physically, emotionally and psychologically ready.
Five stages of development in Psittacine birds.
· Stage 1---Critical Stage. First week of life. A hatchling is totally and absolutely dependent for all its needs. Immunodeficient---lacks an adequate immune system. Easily susceptible to disease. All psittacines are altricial. They are hatched blind and featherless, are helpless in food gathering, and are unable to thermoregulate--- hatchlings can not feed themselves, see, walk, fly or regulate body temperature. Frequent feedings are a must. Temperature and formula consistency are extremely important.
· Stage 2--- Dependent for all needs. From day seven to pin feathers. As a chick matures he will be less affected by temperature variations and incorrect brooding techniques. Formula is a thicker, more nutritious consistency and fed less frequently. Crop capacity is expanding and approaching its maximum. Less frequent feedings are warranted.
· Stage 3---Partial Dependency. Immune system still not fully functional. About half way through to weaning. Maximum crop capacity and peak weight reached during this stage. Feathers coming in. Blood feathers are evident. More able to tolerate lower temperatures but still needs supplemental heat especially at night. Has ability to walk. Starting to try out wings. Is alert and aware of surroundings. Can be introduced to a weaning cage when fully feathered. Becoming more coordinated. Beginning to perch on things. A good time to begin offering a variety of warmed weaning and soft foods in small quantities. Feedings are usually three times a day.
· Stage 4---Weaning Period. On the Way to Becoming a juvenile. Shows assertiveness. Baby is completely feathered. All blood is fully absorbed from wing feathers. Time to clip flight feathers. Beginning of slimming down process in preparation for flight---there is a strong correlation between weaning and flying. Birds usually fly before they are weaned. Babies will shed extra weight put on in preparation for the stressful weaning period. This slimming-down process will enable the fledgling to be able to fly when the time comes to leave the nest.
The crop shrinks and begins to tighten in preparation for a more mature diet. Individuals will require less formula at each feeding (about 10 to 15% less formula per feeding). Feedings (formula) are required only two or three times a day. Supplemental heat unnecessary but sometimes appreciated. At this time a bird may loose from 10-15% of total body weight. Weight and droppings should be closely monitored. Weaning cage highly recommended. A wide variety of weaning foods, fruit and veg., pellets, millet, a good seed mix and water should be made available to fledglings at all times.
· Stage 5---Juvenile Period and Young Adulthood. Completely self sufficient. Able to handle temperature extremes, with in reason. A wide variety of food appreciated.
There are signs that indicate a young bird is approaching weaning age:
1. They may become more difficult to feed and may even refuse to eat.
2. Regurgitation is common and can be a sign of crop shrinkage in preparation for weaning (simply feeding a little less formula can stop regurgitation in some cases).
3. The chick will usually cease to gain weight after reaching his peak weight and begin the slimming down process in preparation for flight.
4. Chicks are more aware of surroundings they will begin to pick at bedding materials and each other.
WEANING IS A GRADUAL & PROGRESSIVE PROCESS
Weaning should be a gradual and well thought out process. Introducing a variety of weaning foods just when babies begin to feather, can encourage early weaning and prove less stressful to young birds as they approach weaning age. Young birds will pick at food items as soon as they have eye/beak coordination. Chicks play with their food long before they actually begin to eat it. This is normal. Most weaning problems occur because weaning foods and water are not made available early enough. Stage 3 not Stage 4 is the ideal time to introduce soft weaning foods, pellets and millet. Stage 3 babies are too young to actually wean at this time but they will explore and become familiar with available foods.
Formula should be fed at maximum amounts during Stage 3--- starvation is not the key to successful weaning. thingyatiel chicks which reach a higher maximum weight sooner also wean earlier than chicks which do not gain more than their normal adult weight (Roudybush, 1986). A detailed weaning chart should be kept on each baby. Monitor and record weights periodically, include daily feeding schedule, formula amounts, condition of droppings (if feasible), weaning foods and include notes, comments and observations. Without accurate weaning records there is minimal opportunity for analysis and scrutiny of management and weaning techniques being used. Close observation, careful monitoring and the ability to accurately document and examine a weaning program is the key to successful weaning practices.
THE WEANING CAGE
Babies are ready to be put in a weaning cage when they are just out of pin feathers (Stage 3). Tail feathers are approximately 1” to 2” long. These feathered babies should be housed in a cage modified or designed to accommodate weaning babies. No more then five to six babies (smaller species such as thingyatiels) should be housed per cage. Larger species may be housed one or two per cage. Include a soft brooder toy for babies housed singularly. The cage should be large enough to allow the birds to exercise their wings.
WEANING CAGE SHOULD NOT BE TOO LARGE OR DRAFTY.
But not so large to be drafty or overwhelming. An economical weaning cage can be made from any safely designed standard cage. Cover the top and three sides of the cage with towels or a sheet, to eliminate drafts and make fledglings feel more secure. If room temperature is a little low supplemental heat may be warranted particularly at night and for younger babies. A heating pad can be clipped, with clothes pins, to the side of the cage, close to floor height (be sure to conceal and confine electrical cord). Another heater option is Cage’N Birds’ Baby Nurse Cuddler. This versatile heater may be secured inside the cage with the babies. Turning any cage or container into a comfortable safe weaning or brooding environment. If floor grate spacing is too wide for scooting babies cover with a plastic wire mesh cut to size and secured. If pre-weaned babies need a little heat they can snuggle against the warmth or retreat away from it if warrented.
HEAVY DISHES AND CLEAN WATER
Keep a wide variety of fresh weaning and soft foods readily available. A baby will not search for food. Food must be easily accessible and highly visible. Feeding dishes should be heavy, have low sides and placed at cage bottom. Clean water should be continuously accessible. Water bottles are the best choice. They are more sanitary and babies quickly learn to use them. Mount bottles low enough on cage so babies at floor height can reach. A 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch PVC coated wire or all plastic grid is recommended for cage bottoms. Place the 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch wire on top of the too wide standard bottom cage grates. The grid keeps babies away from unsanitary droppings and spoiled food, (“Hand-Rearing Parrots and Other Birds”, R. Low, 1988) It is healthier and helps cut clean-up time in half. PVC coating and plastic is easier on delicate fledglings feet then uncoated wire---it is also easier to clean and disinfect.
RED BULBS
I have found that transition from brooder to weaning cage is made easier when a 25 watt red bulb is used as night light and supplemental heat source. The red light is left on at all times. It keeps the weaning cage at a more even temperature and it soothes babies and encourages early weaning. If using the Baby Nurse Cuddler or a heating pad as heat source we suggest using a 7-1/2 or 25 watt red bulb as a night light.
Cage'N Birds B.H.W., Brooder/Hospital /Weaning Cage. This weaning cage was designed and developed for weaning. It is extremely efficient (We now manufacture this cage and offer it to our Cage’N Bird customers.) These light weight units are partially enclosed to cut down on drafts. Yet well ventilated for healthy air flow. The PVC coated wire grid keeps weaning babies clean and well above unhealthy droppings and discarded food. A 25 watt red light bulb provides gentle heat for babies who require it and also gives off a soft light for security and feeding at any time. A conveniently mounted water bottle keeps water clean and readily available. A low perch and low sided, heavy weight dish is also provided.
Weather you purchase a weaning cage or make your own, a weaning cage should be easy to clean, provide a area for food and water, be draft free and provide some form of supplemental heat.
WIDE VARIETY OF WEANING FOODS STIMULATE INTEREST
A variety of nutritious foods presented early is the key to successful weaning. Colors, shapes, textures and flavor all serve to stimulate interest and encourage independence. Birds tastes are highly individual and completely unpredictable. The larger variety of healthy foods made available, the more interested the baby will be in eating a variety of foods. Helpful and nutritious weaning products are numerous and readily available. Pretty Bird, Kaytee, Lafeber, Sun Seed and others offer interesting and nutritious weaning foods, pellets, seed mixes and bean diets. Dry cereals such as Cheerios, Checks, Rice Krispies, puffed wheat and puffed rice make a nice addition to a weaning diet or any diet. Whole wheat bread and rice cakes are excellent.
Monkey biscuits are accepted by most weaning babies. Whether soaked in warm fruit juice or served dry, monkey biscuits should be included with soft foods and dry mixes. A high quality fortified seed mix with a small portion of sunflower seed and peanuts added is a must---these items are soft and easy to hull.
Use caution with soft foods, they spoil quickly.
Soft foods spoil quickly and can cause bacterial infections or even food poisoning. Discard all uneaten food before it spoils. Do keep weaning cage clean and sanitary.
Soft warm foods are a must for juvenile birds. A cooked bean diet such as Pretty Birds’ Birdie Banquet, should be served first thing in the morning before hand-feeding. The warm beans are stimulating and encourage manipulation and swallowing. A good nestling food (CeDe’, Provita, Petamine, or Sweet Harvest, etc.) mixed into or sprinkled on soft foods is a nutritious addition to the weaning diet. I place about one tablesthingy of beans including nestling food, fruit and veg., beans, seed sprouts and lactobacillus on top of the dry seed /pellet mix left over from the day before (if mix is clean and unsoiled). A few hours latter (use common sense) all is discarded and fresh seed and pellets are added to the washed feed dish. Seasonal diced fresh and/or frozen (thawed) fruit and vegetables are nutritious and appealing. Fruits and vegetables may be mixed with the bean diet or served in a separate dish. Sprinkling a little powdered avian strain lactobacillus, such as Bird Bene-Bac, over the soft foods is highly recommended at this stressful time.
"Pellets Are Welcomed By Most Birds"
Adding a variety of pellets to the seed mix is beneficial. Juveniles welcome pellets and usually eat pellets before they are able to hull seeds. Sprouted seed, corn on the cob and cooked beans and rice are excellent and nutritious. Soaked pellets and monkey biscuits may be placed in a separate small dish and offered with sprouts in the afternoon or evening. Home made birdie muffins are never passed up by weaning babies.
Spray millet is excellent as a weaning food. Regular spray millet for smaller species and new Mega Millet for larger species. Millet is a soft grain, easy to handle and the first seed many birds learn to eat. thingyatiels respond well to spray millet. Adding a little dry oat meal and wheat germ to seed and pellet mixes or in a separate dish is appreciated by smaller species such as thingyatiels and other ground feeders.
TWO FEEDINGS A DAY
At Stage 4 of development most small species birds such as thingyatoos are on three feedings a day. Larger species such as Greys, thingyatoos and Macaws are usually on two feedings a day. At Stage 4, when babies begin picking at foods and show restlessness, refuse and struggle when fed or regurgitate at feeding time it is beneficial to decrease the amount of hand-feeding formula (about 10 to 15% per feeding). It is preferable to reduce the amount of food given at each feeding, rather than limit the number of feedings. For example a thingyatiel who was fed 10 to 12 cc’s three times a day would receive about 8 or 9 cc’s per feeding three times a day. Remember crops should not be overly filled with formula. Firm but not tight is the rule. Overly filling a chicks crop at this stage as can cause regurgitation, a stretching of the crop and ultimately cause the chick to regress and become overly dependent on hand-feeding. If the chick is constantly filled with formula and is nutritionally satisfied he may not have interest in eating on his own. With older Stage 4 babies it may prove beneficial to push back the first feeding to later in the morning, say 10:30 or 11:00. Placing a little warmed cooked bean diet on top of the seed and pellet mix sometimes encourages a baby to begin eating while he waits for his morning feeding. Never force a bird to eat. If a bird struggles or pulls away, skip that feeding. He may refuse one or two feedings but chances are he will be ready to eat when he gets hungry or he will be encouraged to try the adult foods.
CHECK CROP FOR FOOD
To evaluate weaning status it s advisable to periodically check the crop for food particles and evidence of independent consumption of foods. Before each formula feeding palpate the bird’s crop noticing any food stuffs he has eaten on his own. A crop with fresh, just eaten food will feel more firm or gritty if he has eaten seed, millet or pellets. You may even feel whole cooked beans or fuit and vegetables. If the crop is packed full of weaning foods it is recommended you skip that feeding. If crop is about 1/3 full of eaten food, hand-feed, but do not fill crop more than 1/2 to 3/4 full. Repeat the same process at the next scheduled feeding. Mark (with a colored marker) and keep a detailed record of any babies who are eating. As consumption of foods increase, slowly decrease the amount and frequency of formula. Feeling a little food in the crop now and then does not mean the baby is totally weaned. Supplemental feedings of formula may be required. You must frequently feel a considerable amount of food (about 3/4 full) in the marked babies crop before he is considered weaned. Before completely eliminating hand-feeding, be sure the bird is eating ample amounts of seeds, pellets and weaning foods. A “weaned” bird should be closely watched for several days after hand-feeding has stopped.
CROP IMPACTION
It is unusual for a weaning babies crop to become impacted if water is always provided and of course that he drinks it. If you suspect impaction, administer a solution of electrolyte such as Lactated Ringers, Ornalyte or Pedialyte with papaya. Warmed electrolyte solution and papaya should be given in small amounts, about 2 to 3 cc’s for thingyatiel sized birds and 5 to 10 cc’s for larger parrots, frequently (about every hour to half hour). I suggest about 1/2 papaya tablet to 10 cc’s Ringers or 1/2 Ringers to approximately 1/2 to 1/3 papaya juice. If you do not have electrolyte on hand a little warm water given as described above may prove beneficial.
MONITOR DROPPINGS---POOP IS A BIG DEAL
It is extremely difficult to assess just how much food a baby is consuming on his own. Droppings, evaluated daily, can give an indication of food consumption. Fecal and urinary output can provide a tremendous amount of information on a fledgling’s appetite, behavioral patterns, as well as providing insight as to his physical condition. When monitoring weaning babies it is important you keep a close eye on the number and consistency of droppings.
A BABY EATING ON HIS OWN WILL HAVE A MORE FIRM WELL FORMED DROPPING.
Chicks fed exclusively a commercial hand-feeding formula will have soft, semi-formed, voluminous stool, usually brownish in color. A baby eating on his own will have more firm well formed droppings (color depends on what type of food he is eating). It is important at this time to watch for any sign of abnormality. Changes in color of urates from white/cream to green or yellow, a change in the amount of fecal material or its consistency, and/or an increase in the amount of urine can indicate health problems. Juicy, slimy and/or foul smelling droppings in a weaned or unweaned bird may mean a health or nutrition problem.
Watery or juicy droppings can indicate a “weaned” baby is not actually weaned. He may have reverted back, he may be only drinking water and is not eating or has he gourged himself on fresh fruit?. You may have to begin hand-feed him again. Only when babies are refusing formula, are eating on their own, cease to beg and have healthy droppings for at least one week to ten days are they considered weaned. Dry, dark green, scant droppings generally indicate a lack of food and water in the digestive tract. If this occurs increase the level of hand feeding as necessary. It is wise to monitor a bird’s droppings, food intake and weight every few days to make sure he eats enough to maintain a healthy body weight. A chick who is weaned will no longer require any hand-feeding to maintain its weight. A weaned bird will not rely on humans for basic survival.
WEANING CAN BE UNPREDICTABLE
Weaning is an unpredictable and confusing time which can feature weight loss, uncontrollable begging, illness, depression and sometimes personality changes. During weaning make sure babies are healthy, are not too thin and seem alert and active. It is a good idea to feel a babies keel bone often. It should be plump with flesh. If keel bone is sharp and narrow, and feet and toes are thin and claw like it may be that he is not receiving enough nourishment or it could be a medical problem. Thinness in combination with overdue weaning, excessive crying and begging and loose and/or slimy foul droopings can be an indication of a yeast or bacterial problem. A baby can become too thin to wean and should be supplemented with formula (sometimes administering Instant Ounces can prove beneficial in severe cases of weight loss) until his weight is satisfactory and he is not frantic for food. A baby should not be allowed to reach the point of emaciation. It is normal for babies to loose some weight during weaning (10 to 15% of peak weight). If a baby refuses to wean, looses over 20% of his peak weight, has abnormal droppings and begs insistently to be hand-fed or if you are worried about a babies condition, consult your avian veterinarian, the baby may have a health problem
IN CONCLUSION
Weaning is a natural process. It is easily accomplished if one understands that process and does not try to change or hurry the natural course of events. Keep in mind birds are individuals weaning times and circumstances will vary. Even clutch mates can wean at different ages. Remember, the larger the bird the longer it takes to wean. A careful attention to avian husbandry and a knowledge of normal development is essential to success in hand-feeding and weaning parrots.